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Diamonds

The Four C'S

The price of a diamond is defined by four criteria - caratage, colour, clarity and cut.

 

Caratage

This refers to the weight of the stone. The name is derived from the seed (kuara) of the African Coral tree or from the kernel (Greek keration) of the Carob bean. One carat=1/5gram (200 mg or 0.2 gram). One carat=100 points. So a diamond of 50 points = 1/2 carat or 0.50ct (and 100mg in weight). One point=1/100 carat or 0.01ct. As a rough guide, a diamond of 1/2 carat has an approximate diameter of 5mm; a 1 carat of 6.5mm and a 2 carat of 8mm. If a 1.0ct diamond had a value of £750, a 2.0ct would not necessarily be worth £1,500 but maybe £3,000 or more. Large diamonds are rare. The carat weight of gems is not to be confused with the carat (gold content) used by a goldsmith.

Diamonds


Colour

Diamonds are graded using a colour scale that ranges from D (exceptionally white and colourless) to Z (yellow tinted). Colours D, E, F are recommended for the purist; G, H, I are near colourless and are recommended for most customers. Colours J, K, L, M show faint colour and are recommended for the budget conscious. The rarer strong colours (green, red, blue, purple, brown, yellow and black), the so-called fancy colours are graded and valued individually.

Clarity

Most diamonds have imperfections; impurities, non-crystallized carbon, cracks or scratches, also called inclusions. Most inclusions can only be seen under magnification. These are labelled in the following manner:

  1. Flawless (F) - no inclusions or blemishes seen under × 10 magnification
  2. Internally Flawless (IF) - no inclusions, with some minor surface blemishes
  3. Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) - containing minute inclusions that are difficult to see under X10 magnification
  4. Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) - inclusions are clearly seen although minor and small
  5. Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) - inclusions are noticeable and fairly easy to see under the X10 magnification
  6. Imperfect (I1, I2 and I3) - inclusions that are obvious under × 10 magnification or can be seen with the unaided eye

Cut

This is the arrangement of the diamonds facets. The facets are planned and proportioned so that ambient light is reflected from one facet to another until the light exits from the top or crown of the diamond. Symmetry refers to how well the facets line up with each other. It can take from several hours to several months to cut and polish a diamond, depending on size, shape and style of the final product. During cutting and polishing, a rough diamond will lose approximately 50% of its original weight. The final finish is graded as below;

  1. Very good -exceptional brilliance. Few and only minor outer marks. Very good proportions
  2. Good - good brilliance. Some outer marks. Proportions with some deviations
  3. Medium - slightly less brilliance. Several larger outer marks. Proportions with considerable deviations
  4. Poor - brilliance considerably less. Large and/or numerous outer marks. Proportions with very distinct deviations

Miscellaneous Information

  • If you want to be humorous there is a fifth C - credit card!
  • The name diamond refers to its hardness - it is the Greek adamas
  • Its cutting resistance is × 140 harder than that of ruby or sapphire which is the next hardest stone
  • The hardness of diamond is different in the individual crystal faces - this allows the diamond to be cut.
  • Because of the diamond cleavage care must be taken NOT to accidentally bang against the edge of a diamond - this includes when setting. Diamonds can and do break.
  • Diamond is a simple crystalline structure of carbon produced by extremely high pressure and temperature.
  • They are formed at great depth between 150 - 300km below the earths surface. By volcanic eruption they came to the surface or close to it with the rising magma.
  • Diamond is generally insensitive to chemical reactions.
  • High temperatures can induce etchings on the facet - care must be taken when soldering near a diamond.
  • The melting point of diamond is 4,000 Celsius or about × 2.5 higher than the melting point of steel
  • Important diamond mines are found in the following countries - Zaire, Botswana, Angola, Ghana, Central African Republic, Venezuela, Guinea, Liberia, Russia, Australia (largest producer of diamonds but not of quality!), China and Canada


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Argenteus Jewellery Ltd . PO Box 335 . Kidlington . Oxfordshire . OX5 9AT . United Kingdom
Telephone +44 (0)8454 560 460 . Fax +44 (0)1865 847949 . Email info@argenteus.co.uk